6.14.2010

Summer Lawn & Landscape Tips

You were inspired to prepare your lawn and landscape for the Summer months to come so that you can still take time to rest, relax and enjoy your outdoor living.   We know it will be a long, hot summer so here are a few following tips will keep the chores and pests to a minimum and your lawn growing green!
Ah, summer, what power you have to make us suffer and like it. -  Russel Baker

Lawn and Landscape
To keep your lawn well fed through the stress of summer, apply a slow release fertilizer in late June - early July, a ratio of 3-1-2 is recommended.  Example formulations to look for would be 9-5-9, 19-4-10, 18-4-6 or 15-5-10.  Be sure of adequate water post-application. If you see a yellowing of your lawn, or chlorosis, now through September, apply iron as directed on the label in either liquid or granular form.  


If you have an irrigation system, monitor for good coverage and adjust clock as necessary through dry and rainy spells.  If you use manual sprinklers, use sprinkler units that offer broad and consistent coverage, move as necessary. Consistent amount of water and coverage are key to a lush lawn and healthy plants and shrubs.  Stress in the landscape planting can invite pests and disease.

If your Spring color has begun to fade consider a planting of lantana, penta and/or salvias.  These are hardy through the summer and will attract butterflies and hummingbirds as they migrate through our area in August and September.




Control The Pests
Fire Ants: Ants tend to be more active and be on the move with the rains of the Summer months.  Be proactive and use a broadcast bait such as Bifenthrin (or Talstar), Permethrin, Amdro or Logic.  Treat mounds with a liquid insecticide as Permethrin or Orthene.  This can be very effective if neighbors coordinate these applications. 
Chinch Bugs:   Keep an eye out July through September for irregular shaped spots in the lawn, especially along curb lines, walks and drives.  Factors that  promote chinch bug activity are sunny areas during hot dry summer; excessive thatch; too little or too much irrigation and excessive fertilization. Spot treat the area(s) with a Permethrin based liquid insecticide.  To keep the pest at bay, apply a granular Permethrin insecticide with a broadcast applicator throughout the rest of the lawn.


Mosquitos: There is no doubt that the mosquito with be the insect pest that will effect each of us and our family members most directly.  There are excellent products that can be applied directly from the container fastened to your water hose to spray throughout your yard.  Keep in mind that these will also kill the beneficial insects and food for the beneficials.  Consider the use of this type of product if you have an outdoor gathering in the plans.  Consider aerosol sprays for smaller areas,  the citronella based candles and lanterns and the variety of personal use lotions and sprays available for day to day protection as needed.  Be proactive, be sure that there are no containers of standing water and treat ponds and water features with Bt Mosquito Dunks to prohibit breeding. Installed mosquito systems are quite effective but can be costly to install and maintain. 

In any case of applying fertilizers or chemical insecticide, always follow the directions on the label and consider children and pet play areas.  Use personal protection as directed.

Be Prepared
Hopefully, we will have more precipitation this summer than the Summer of 2009.  Remember those summer storms with high winds and often times some hail.  Keep shrubs and trees trimmed away from structures and inspect for damaged and dead limbs that can become objects of flight in a storm.  If a hurricane draws near, don’t forget to secure any lawn ornaments, furniture, equipment and lighting fixtures away.  Summer is the time when many travel.  Coordinate with a trusted neighbor or friend to keep a check on the irrigation system in case of power loss or surges.  If you will be gone for an extended period of time, plan ahead with someone that can look after your home and landscape in case of tropical storm or hurricane.

While our woes of the Summer months may sound like “doom and gloom” we can practice a few small steps to be sure we have a beautiful landscape and plenty of fun times to safely share with our family and friends. 

HAVE A HAPPY SUMMER!
The Staff of Legacy Landscape

3.05.2010

Pruning Citrus Trees

After an "average" winter, citrus trees in our area do not typically need pruning but once every couple of years, once a year for lemon trees.  After the freezing weather of Winter 2009-2010, we will want to take a look at our trees to assess freeze damage and clean out dead wood and damaged limbs.  While you can prune between March and August, you will want to carry out this task before flowering begins, if possible.  There are a couple of things you will want to do before you begin to prepare for the pruning.

Think safety first!  Many varieties have wicked thorns, you will need a pair of heavy duty gardening or leather gloves.  Dress accordingly as you will be reaching into the tree.  Protective eye wear is a must to protect your eyes from snapping branches or falling debris.  If you will be working on a ladder, be sure it is sturdy and placed with even footing and do not work alone.

Equipment:
Depending on the size of your tree(s), you will need just a few pieces of hand equipment that you probably have the in garage.  Make sure that the edges are sharp for clean cuts and that the blades are clean to eliminate the chances of spreading disease to the open cuts.
You will need hand pruners for the small branches and dead wood.  Long handle loppers for the tall branches and thinning the canopy.  A pruning saw will be needed for the larger branches and stubborn suckers.

Let the pruning begin!  Inspect the tree from below at the graft joint.  This is where the variety has been grafted to the rootstock.  You will find a "knuckle" in the tree trunk approximately 1 - 2' from the ground.  Remove any of the "suckers" that are growing from the rootstock.  These branches are fast growing, generally very thorny, will not produce true and/or edible fruit and the tree will have to share water and nutrients with these non-producers.  With your shears, saw or loppers, cut these suckers as close to the truck as possible with a clean, vertical cut.  The vertical cut is essential to allow moisture to run down and away, preventing rot and allowing the "wound" to heal quickly.

Now you are ready for the pruning of the main canopy.  This is the work that will allow sunlight and air to penetrate through the branches.  Step back and look at the tree from all angles, walking around the tree and examining for shape and branches crossing the center axis.  Remove the cross branches and spindly twig branches, cutting hard to the main branch.  Cut out any dead wood as this will attract wood boring beetles.  Use the pruners to cut away spindly ends of main branches.  You can safely prune drastically in the crown (center) of the tree, leaving as few a three main branches in the center of the tree.   Keep in mind the height of the tree for ease of harvesting the fruit.   Keep overall tree height under 8' to keep the picking the easiest.  Length shortening cuts should be made at an angle.

While pruning the tree, inspect for insects and disease and treat accordingly and directed on the product label.  March through October, feed trees once a month.  If using a granular feed, be sure to water in immediately and water well, particularly through the hot summer months.

For more information on growing citrus trees in Texas, you will find this article from Texas A&M AgriLIFE Aggie Horticulture helpful.

We wish you a bountiful harvest!